Hot cross buns are traditionally made for Easter on Good Friday, but I decided to make them today. I varied the recipe with non-traditional fruits: instead of currants, I use dried cranberries; for the candied citrus peel, I added plenty of fresh orange zest. Their bright red and orange in the batter seemed just right for Easter Day.

The recipe for the buns was from Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes (Wiley, 2004). Hamelman is a master baker and baking instructor, and it shows. Using the book is like taking a bread-making course. Indeed, beginner bakers might be put off by Hamelman’s detailed formulas and lengthy recipes. Experienced home bakers might not like seeing so much chemistry and math in the kitchen either! Ingredient lists, for example, are rendered in industrial and home proportions, as well as in baker’s percentages. I felt, however, that the amount of baking science and guidance included was just right.

I often find that bread books tailored to home cooks are frustratingly vague or imprecise. Following Hamelman’s instructions, I felt confident and assured of an excellent result. A careful read of the opening section on Ingredients and Techniques made the rest of the book easy to use and understand. I was sure that Hamelman would not let me muddle my way through.

I’m pleased to report that the hot cross buns were one of the nicest breads that I have ever made: nicely crusty on the outside, but light, with a very tender crumb. They were so moist and soft that I was surprised there was enough structure inside to hold the fruit. I can’t wait to make more bread out of this book.

(Photos by Guy.)